Cosmetics and Personal Care IP Checklist: Name Clearance, Claim Substantiation, Packaging and Trade Dress, Ingredient Listing, and Influencer Review
By Casey Scott McKay ·
This checklist builds a cosmetics or personal care legal position in the order that prevents the sector's two recurring failures: a claim that drifts across the drug boundary and a word describing the product's contents that nothing supports. Phase one builds the claims matrix and the prohibited words list and appoints a reviewer outside the commercial reporting line. Phase two assembles the safety substantiation and registration file that now forms the federal baseline. The middle phases cover labelling mechanics and panel space, packaging filings timed against the launch reveal, shade and collection naming, the formulation secrecy decision, and the contract manufacturing terms that determine whether the brand owns its own formula. The closing phases handle influencer programmes, channel control and diverted goods, retailer requirements, international entry, incident readiness, and the estate walk that measures the real position.
IP and Technology > Trademarks | Checklist | Published 13 March 2025 - Updated 1 November 2025 | Casey Scott McKay - marksy.us
Summary. This checklist builds a cosmetics or personal care legal position in the order that prevents the sector's two recurring failures: a claim that drifts across the drug boundary and a word describing the product's contents that nothing supports. Phase one builds the claims matrix and the prohibited words list and appoints a reviewer outside the commercial reporting line. Phase two assembles the safety substantiation and registration file that now forms the federal baseline. The middle phases cover labelling mechanics and panel space, packaging filings timed against the launch reveal, shade and collection naming, the formulation secrecy decision, and the contract manufacturing terms that determine whether the brand owns its own formula. The closing phases handle influencer programmes, channel control and diverted goods, retailer requirements, international entry, incident readiness, and the estate walk that measures the real position.
Keywords: cosmetics checklist · claims matrix · prohibited words list · cosmetic drug boundary · safety substantiation · facility registration · adverse event intake · ingredient declaration · allergen disclosure · panel space · design filings before reveal · packaging trade dress · shade name clearance · formulation secrecy · contract manufacturer terms · batch coding · authorised seller policy · influencer guidance · retailer standards · estate walk
How to use this checklist
| Field | Detail | |---|---| | Who runs it | Brand counsel with regulatory affairs, marketing, packaging, and supply chain | | When | Twelve weeks before launch; on every range extension; annually across the estate | | Time required | Six to eight weeks for a first pass on one range | | Gates | Claims matrix agreed; design filings made before reveal; substantiation held before publication | | Output | A claims matrix, a prohibited words list, a substantiation file, a filings register, and an estate walk record | | Companion documents | Launching a Cosmetics or Personal Care Brand and Clean, Natural, Dermatologist-Tested |
The matter. A three-year-old skincare brand sells eleven products through its own site and two national retailers. Its bestselling serum is marketed as "clinically proven to reduce wrinkles in fourteen days" on the strength of a twenty-person self-reported study, and the range is described throughout as "clean" and "non-toxic". The packaging is distinctive and has been copied by two competitors; nothing has been filed. Shade names for a new colour range were chosen last week and none has been searched. The contract manufacturer holds the formula and the agreement is a two-page purchase arrangement. An unauthorised discounter is selling on a marketplace. Two hundred creators receive gifted product with no guidance. A customer has posted about a skin reaction under the brand's most recent product launch post.
Phase 1. Build the claims matrix
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[ ] List every claim in use, by surface. Pack, website, retailer listings, social output, sales decks, press materials, founder interviews. Why. Intended use is established by everything the seller says, not by the label alone. Trap. A matrix built from packaging copy only.
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[ ] Categorise each claim. Cosmetic, drug, environmental, comparative. Why. A cosmetic claim describes appearance under 21 U.S.C. § 321(i); a drug claim describes an effect on structure, function, or disease under 21 U.S.C. § 321(g). Trap. Categorising by product rather than by sentence.
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[ ] Write the safe formulations into the matrix. "Reduces the appearance of" is cosmetic; "reduces" is not. Why. The boundary is crossed by adverbs. Trap. Assuming the difference is stylistic.
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[ ] Identify the drug-cosmetic combinations. Sunscreen, anti-dandruff, antiperspirant, fluoride. Why. They are subject to both frameworks from the outset. Trap. Discovering the classification during label review.
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[ ] Publish a prohibited words list. "Clean", "chemical-free", unqualified "natural", "non-toxic", and any disease reference. Why. A one-page list where copy is written prevents more than a policy. Trap. A list circulated by email and never displayed.
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[ ] [Gate] Appoint the reviewer outside the commercial reporting line. Why. The person deciding whether a claim ships should not report to the person whose targets depend on it shipping. Trap. Review assigned to a brand manager.
Phase 2. Substantiation and registration
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[ ] Hold substantiation that predates publication for every claim. Why. Evidence assembled after a challenge is a defence built after the fact and reads as one. Trap. A supplier certificate offered for a product-level claim.
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[ ] Treat "clinically proven" and "dermatologist-tested" as establishment claims. Why. The advertiser must hold tests that establish the proposition and a challenger wins by attacking the tests — Castrol v. Pennzoil and Time Warner Cable v. DIRECTV. Trap. A small self-reported study supporting a percentage claim.
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[ ] Assess "hypoallergenic" honestly. Why. There is no binding federal definition, so the burden is entirely on the seller. Trap. Use of the term because it is common.
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[ ] Build the safety substantiation file per product, retrievable, with the assessor identified and dated. Why. It is a regulatory obligation and the first document requested in any injury claim. Trap. A folder of supplier documents.
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[ ] Complete facility registration and product listing, with renewals diarised. Trap. Registration treated as a one-time task.
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[ ] Stand up adverse event intake as a process. Monitored channel, triage standard, qualified reviewer, records, documented reporting decision. Why. Serious events must be reported within a defined period. Trap. Social media comments describing reactions treated as customer service.
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[ ] Identify the responsible person on the label with a domestic contact. Trap. A distributor named without agreement.
Phase 3. Labelling and panel space
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[ ] Check ingredient declaration against 21 C.F.R. § 701.3. Descending order, established nomenclature, colour additive and low-concentration treatment. Trap. Marketing names substituted for established ones.
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[ ] Confirm identity, net quantity, and responsible party under the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. Trap. Net quantity omitted from a secondary carton.
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[ ] Plan fragrance allergen disclosure into the panel. Why. It cuts against reliance on a single declared fragrance item and consumes space claims want. Trap. Artwork approved before the disclosure requirement is calculated.
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[ ] Verify colour additives are listed and used within their permitted area. Eye area, lips, external use. Why. Using an unlisted colour or one outside its permission adulterates the product regardless of claims. Trap. A shade reformulated without a colour review.
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[ ] Apply category rules. Hair dye caution statements, sunscreen monograph labelling, aerosol warnings. Trap. A moisturiser with sun protection treated as a cosmetic only.
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[ ] Do not rely on trade secret protection for ingredient identity. Why. It is available only narrowly and the general rule is disclosure. Trap. A formulation strategy premised on non-disclosure of an ingredient.
Phase 4. Packaging filings, timed
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[ ] File design applications on containers, closures, and applicators before any image is released. Why. 35 U.S.C. § 171 protection issues quickly and 35 U.S.C. § 289 awards total profit against a copyist. Trap. Press previews and influencer seeding treated as pre-launch rather than as disclosure.
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[ ] Diarise foreign design filings against absolute novelty. Why. A single published image forfeits them. Trap. A reveal calendar not synchronised with the filing calendar.
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[ ] Characterise the trade dress correctly. Packaging can be inherently distinctive under Two Pesos v. Taco Cabana; product design always requires secondary meaning under Wal-Mart Stores v. Samara Brothers. Trap. Assuming a compact is packaging.
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[ ] Expect functionality objections under TrafFix Devices v. Marketing Displays to dispensers, applicators, and closures. Trap. Claiming the mechanism rather than the ornamentation.
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[ ] Consider a colour mark where a signature shade exists, on secondary meaning evidence under Qualitex v. Jacobson Products. Trap. Asserting colour rights with no evidence file.
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[ ] Register rather than relying on unregistered rights. Why. A registration converts a difficult trade dress case into a manageable one. Trap. Evidence of secondary meaning assembled during litigation.
Phase 5. Names
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[ ] Clear and file the house mark and range names in the principal markets before launch. Trap. Domestic-only clearance for a brand that will sell internationally within a season.
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[ ] Screen every shade and collection name at least against identical marks. Why. A forty-shade range produces forty names and several will collide in adjacent classes. Trap. No screening at all, which is the sector norm.
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[ ] File on names that recur across seasons. Why. Consistent use builds recognition and the name begins functioning as a mark. Trap. A successful shade name used for four years and owned by nobody.
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[ ] Manage limited edition names as a category. Why. They are chosen quickly, used briefly, and abandoned, producing unprotected successes or dead intent-to-use filings. Trap. Maintaining applications for cancelled programmes indefinitely.
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[ ] Expect descriptiveness refusals under 15 U.S.C. § 1052(e). Why. Glow, radiance, hydrate, luminous, and pure are heavily crowded. Trap. A naming brief that asks for a descriptive name.
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[ ] Screen for deceptive misdescriptiveness. Why. It is not curable by acquired distinctiveness and catches names suggesting an ingredient the product lacks. Trap. A name retained after reformulation.
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[ ] Search transliterations and foreign equivalents. Why. Names travel through social media faster than distribution. Trap. Discovering the conflict after the name has acquired recognition.
Phase 6. Formulation, secrecy, and the manufacturer
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[ ] Run the analytical test before deciding anything. Send the product to an independent laboratory and ask what it can determine about composition and process. Why. The label already discloses the formula in descending order, so what remains protectable is proportion, process, and source. Trap. A secrecy strategy for something a chromatogram reveals.
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[ ] Patent the devices. Dispensers, brushes, applicator geometries, device-cosmetic combinations. Why. They are mechanical inventions with detectable infringement and are frequently the genuine innovation. Trap. Effort concentrated on formulation patents that face structural obviousness under In re Dillon and range obviousness under In re Aller.
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[ ] Where a formulation patent is pursued, generate comparative data early. Why. In re Papesch allows properties to rebut structure, and only data does that. Trap. Unexpected results asserted without a comparison.
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[ ] Test the trade secret programme against 18 U.S.C. § 1839 and include the 18 U.S.C. § 1833 whistleblower notice. Trap. A programme that fails at the contract manufacturer, which is where it usually does.
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[ ] Rewrite the contract manufacturing agreement. Formula ownership including improvements; prohibition on producing for others with a defined tail; overrun control and certified destruction; incoming material testing and change notice; documentation destruction at termination; indemnity sized to the exposure; audit rights exercised annually. Why. Most filling agreements address none of these. Trap. A two-page purchase arrangement treated as a manufacturing contract.
Phase 7. Influencers
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[ ] Issue written guidance with a prohibited-claims list, and send it with gifted product. Why. Gifting programmes are the hardest to manage because recipients do not consider themselves endorsers. Trap. Guidance published on a portal nobody visits.
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[ ] Require material connection disclosure at the point of the endorsement under 16 C.F.R. § 255. Why. Free product, affiliate commissions, codes, ambassador arrangements, and employment are all material connections. Trap. Disclosure in a profile biography.
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[ ] Understand that disclosure does not cure an unsubstantiated claim. Why. A creator saying a serum cleared their acne makes a drug claim the brand answers for. Trap. Compliance measured by disclosure rates alone.
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[ ] Monitor and document takedowns. Why. The expected controls are process controls and the brand should be able to show it tried. Trap. Monitoring with no record of action.
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[ ] Require disclosure on every post in an ongoing relationship, not the first. Trap. Affiliates disclosing once and stopping.
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[ ] Write an employee posting policy. Why. Staff are endorsers with an obvious material connection. Trap. A policy covering paid creators only.
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[ ] Review before-and-after imagery for typicality evidence and editing. Trap. Lighting and retouching differences presented as results.
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[ ] Treat reposted user content as the brand's claim. Why. A repost adopts the statement. Trap. Curation performed by a social team outside the review process.
Phase 8. Channel, retailers, and diverted goods
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[ ] Publish an authorised seller policy and enforce it consistently. Why. It supports the quality control and material difference arguments. Trap. A policy produced for the first time in a demand letter.
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[ ] Batch code from the first production run. Why. Codes identifying the authorised purchaser convert untraceable diversion into a contract claim, and code removal is itself a material difference. Trap. Retrofitting traceability across distributed inventory.
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[ ] Build the material difference case on objective grounds. Formulation, packaging, language, warnings, quality control, shelf life, period after opening. Why. Impression Products v. Lexmark International removes patent leverage over post-sale distribution, leaving 15 U.S.C. § 1125. Trap. A counterfeiting claim against genuine goods.
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[ ] Use platform brand registry programmes first. Why. Registry-based takedowns are faster than litigation and depend on registered rights. Trap. Litigation as the first response to a marketplace listing.
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[ ] Reserve litigation for counterfeits, using 15 U.S.C. § 1114 with seizure under 15 U.S.C. § 1116 and statutory damages under 15 U.S.C. § 1117, plus customs recordation. Trap. Enforcement spread evenly across the catalogue rather than concentrated on the handful of items counterfeiters target.
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[ ] Control testers, samples, and professional product with distinct packaging, "not for resale" marking, and contractual restrictions. Trap. Marking without contract.
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[ ] Include retailer listings in every claim review. Why. Retailer sites reproduce brand-supplied copy, and a claim removed from the brand's site persists elsewhere for months. Trap. An estate walk covering owned channels only.
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[ ] Read retailer standards as contractual obligations. Ingredient exclusion lists, substantiation requirements, packaging specifications, sustainability criteria. Why. Failing them is a delisting risk that arrives faster than any legal one. Trap. Treating retailer requirements as guidance.
Phase 9. Incidents, international, and review
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[ ] Trace every complaint to batch. Why. A brand that cannot identify the production run cannot scope an incident or recall proportionately. Trap. Complaint records with no lot identifier.
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[ ] Decide recall scope on evidence. Why. Under-scoping and expanding twice is worse commercially and reputationally than one correctly sized action. Trap. Scope set by inventory value.
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[ ] Check insurance before the incident. Product liability limits, recall expense cover, advertising injury cover, with exclusions read. Trap. Cover assumed from a certificate.
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[ ] Map ingredient permissibility per market before entry. Why. A single global formula frequently cannot be sold everywhere. Trap. Export begun on the domestic formulation.
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[ ] Identify pre-market notification obligations, responsible persons, and product information file requirements in target markets. Trap. Market entry planned by commercial teams alone.
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[ ] Reconcile cruelty-free positioning with market requirements, including raw material suppliers and any market requiring testing. Trap. A global claim supported by a domestic policy.
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[ ] Walk the estate every ninety days. Website, pack, retailer listings, and social output compared against the claims register. Why. The gap is the real risk position and it is always larger than the register suggests. Trap. Auditing the register against itself.
Phase 10. Working the example matter
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[ ] Pull the wrinkle claim today. Why. "Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles in fourteen days" is an establishment claim resting on a twenty-person self-reported study, and it is also arguably a structure claim placing the product in the drug framework. A challenger wins on the study alone under Castrol v. Pennzoil, and a class action follows the percentage. Trap. Negotiating the wording down while leaving the claim live.
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[ ] Replace it with what the study supports. Why. A self-reported study can support a claim about how users perceived the appearance of their skin, if the population, method, and self-reporting are disclosed. That claim is defensible and the current one is not. Trap. Removing the claim with no compliant alternative, which guarantees its return in another form.
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[ ] Delete "clean" and "non-toxic" across the range. Why. They carry the sector's class action exposure, imply the safety substantiation obligation, and convey nothing that cannot be said specifically. Trap. Substituting "conscious" or "pure", which is the same claim in different clothing.
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[ ] File design applications on the packaging immediately. Why. Two competitors have already copied it, which establishes both the commercial value and, unfortunately, the disclosure. Domestic applications remain available within the grace period; foreign rights are probably lost. Assess whether unregistered trade dress with secondary meaning evidence is now the better route. Trap. Assuming nothing can be done because the packaging has been public.
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[ ] Build the trade dress evidence file now. Sales figures, advertising spend, unsolicited media, and any consumer recognition evidence. Why. Product design trade dress requires secondary meaning under Wal-Mart Stores v. Samara Brothers, and the copyists' existence is itself evidence of recognition. Trap. Assembling the file after filing suit.
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[ ] Screen the new shade names before the range ships. Why. Names chosen last week and unsearched will contain at least one collision, and a rebrand after launch costs far more than a search. Trap. Shipping and screening in parallel.
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[ ] Renegotiate with the contract manufacturer before the next production run. Why. A two-page purchase arrangement means the filler probably owns or co-owns the formula, may produce it for others, and has no destruction obligation for overruns — which also explains part of the discounter problem. Trap. Deferring because production depends on the relationship, which is precisely why the leverage will never be better than now.
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[ ] Address the discounter through the marketplace programme, not litigation. Why. The goods are genuine, so the claim is material difference under 15 U.S.C. § 1125, which requires batch coding, an authorised seller policy, and quality control evidence the brand does not yet have. Build those first. Trap. A counterfeiting demand letter against genuine product.
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[ ] Issue influencer guidance to all two hundred creators this week. Why. The brand answers for their claims, the expected control is a documented process, and a one-page prohibited-claims list costs nothing. Trap. Guidance issued only to new recipients.
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[ ] Treat the skin reaction post as an adverse event. Why. It is one, whether or not the intake process exists, and the response has to be triage and record rather than a customer service reply. Trap. A social team deleting the comment.
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[ ] [Gate] Sequence: pull the wrinkle claim and the prohibited words, issue influencer guidance, treat the adverse event, then filings, then the manufacturer, then the channel. Why. The first three are live exposures; the rest are structural work on a plan. Trap. Starting with the packaging copyists because that is the most emotionally salient item.
Phase 11. Founder brands and licensing
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[ ] Settle personal name rights at investment, not at exit. Why. A founder selling the business sells the mark bearing their name, and what they may do afterwards is the most contested set of terms in the transaction. Trap. Deferring because the relationship is good.
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[ ] License image, voice, and likeness expressly. Why. Right of publicity is separate from the trademark, governed by state law with widely varying scope, and does not travel with the mark by implication. Trap. Assuming brand ownership includes the founder's likeness.
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[ ] Check post-mortem publicity rights where a heritage name or an estate is involved. Trap. A revival programme built on an assumption about duration.
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[ ] Include approval rights, quality control, morals provisions, minimum guarantees, and wind-down terms in any celebrity licence. Trap. A licence negotiated on royalty rate alone.
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[ ] Exercise the quality control. Why. A licence without genuine control invites a naked licensing argument capable of invalidating the mark. Trap. Approval rights that exist on paper and are never used.
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[ ] Settle social media ownership in writing. Handle, followers, content, and what happens on departure. Trap. Accounts registered in a founder's personal name.
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[ ] In collaborations, allocate the creative and define the tail. Artwork, packaging design, shade names, campaign assets, sell-off periods, and how long the collaboration may be referenced. Trap. A season-length relationship papered like a purchase order.
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[ ] Treat charitable tie-ins as advertising claims. Why. "A portion of proceeds" requires the portion to be stated or determinable and the recipient identified, and several states regulate commercial co-ventures specifically. Trap. A donation arrangement described only in a press release.
Phase 12. Environmental positioning in beauty
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[ ] Apply the Green Guides without modification. Why. Unqualified general benefit claims are almost never substantiable, and "sustainable" is no softer here than anywhere else. Trap. Treating beauty as a category with its own environmental vocabulary.
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[ ] Assess recyclability across the whole package. Why. A pump, mirror, magnet, or metallised coating can render a component unrecyclable regardless of the substrate. Trap. A claim about the bottle that ignores the closure.
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[ ] Describe refill systems accurately. Why. A refillable format supports a claim about the system and about what the consumer must do, not about the individual unit. Trap. "Refillable" on a unit that is not.
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[ ] Check "plastic-free" and "waterless" against films, seals, and secondary packaging. Trap. A claim assessed on the primary container only.
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[ ] Disclose the accounting behind sourcing claims. Why. Certified input purchased on a mass balance basis supports a claim about a proportion of input, not about the contents of the jar. Trap. A certificate treated as though it travelled with the molecules.
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[ ] Reconcile cruelty-free with suppliers and markets. Why. A claim covering the finished product but not raw material suppliers, or not markets where testing may be required, is incomplete. Trap. A certification licence relied on without reading its scope.
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[ ] Treat carbon neutrality claims as offset claims with the disclosure and quality problems that attach. Trap. A neutrality badge on pack with no published basis.
Phase 13. Ingredient supply chain
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[ ] Build a supplier file per ingredient. Specification, certificate history, change notices, provenance evidence, and the claims that depend on it. Why. Several of the sector's exposures originate upstream. Trap. A purchasing record treated as a compliance file.
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[ ] Treat supplier documentation as evidence, not substantiation. Why. A certificate of analysis states what a supplier tested; the claim is the brand's and so is the burden. Trap. Forwarding a supplier certificate in response to a challenge.
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[ ] Require notice of feedstock, process, and sub-supplier change, and audit the notices. Why. Specification drift makes published claims false without any decision by the brand. Trap. Change control covering specification but not provenance.
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[ ] Assess botanical and mineral provenance. Why. Sustainable sourcing claims need chain-of-custody evidence, and material derived from genetic resources collected abroad may attract access and benefit-sharing obligations. Trap. A botanical extract sourced through a broker with no origin record.
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[ ] Run diligence on high-risk inputs. Why. Labour and deforestation obligations intersect directly with responsible-sourcing marketing, and the claim invites scrutiny of the diligence. Trap. Marketing a sourcing standard the supply chain has never been audited against.
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[ ] Test incoming materials. Why. Contamination arrives through raw materials more often than through manufacturing. Trap. Reliance on the filler's own incoming testing, which may not exist.
Phase 14. Annual review and estate walk
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[ ] Walk every surface and compare with the register. Website, pack, retailer listings, marketplace listings, social output, press materials. Why. The gap is the actual risk position and it is always larger than expected. Trap. A desk review of approved assets.
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[ ] Map every registration to a product in the current range. Why. Portfolios drift toward protecting discontinued collections, and maintenance on retired shade names is pure cost. Trap. Renewing by default.
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[ ] Promote recurring names to filings and prune retired ones. Trap. Intent-to-use applications maintained for cancelled programmes.
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[ ] Refresh the trade dress evidence file. Sales, advertising spend, unsolicited media, recognition evidence. Why. Secondary meaning is proved with a maintained file, not an assembled one. Trap. Evidence gathered during litigation.
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[ ] Review design filings against current packaging. Why. Containers change; filings on retired packaging can lapse and new packaging needs filings before reveal. Trap. A design portfolio reviewed only at renewal.
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[ ] Audit the licence estate. Celebrity, collaboration, and character licences carry approval, quality control, and termination obligations that lapse quietly. Trap. A licence file nobody opens between renewals.
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[ ] Re-run the claims substantiation expiry check. Why. Evidence ages with the supply chain and the market. Trap. A register with no dates.
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[ ] Report four measures. Registrations mapped to live products; design filings against current packaging; enforcement actions by type; the estate walk gap. Trap. Reporting filings made rather than coverage achieved.
Phase 15. Category-specific screening
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[ ] Treat sunscreen as a drug. Why. Monograph framework, specified actives, prescribed testing and labelling; broad spectrum and water resistance claims are prescribed rather than free-form. Trap. A moisturiser with sun protection reviewed as a cosmetic.
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[ ] Check hair dye against the conditional exemption. Why. It depends on a prescribed caution statement and patch test instruction, with coal-tar dyes in their own carve-out. Trap. The caution statement omitted for design reasons.
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[ ] Verify colour additive listing and area of use. Eye area, lips, external. Why. An unlisted colour, or a listed colour outside its permission, adulterates the product regardless of any claim. Trap. A shade extension formulated without a colour review.
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[ ] Screen nail, lash, and adhesive products for sensitisation warnings, and check whether professional-only products are reaching consumers. Trap. Professional product sold direct without relabelling.
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[ ] Apply heightened scrutiny to children's products. Safety substantiation, packaging, marketing, and — where sold online — children's advertising and privacy rules. Trap. A children's line treated as a smaller version of the adult range.
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[ ] Classify bundled devices separately. Light masks, microcurrent tools, rollers. Why. They are frequently regulated devices and bundling with a cream does not merge their status. Trap. A device-and-cream set marketed under the cosmetic framework.
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[ ] Check disposal and flushability claims on wipes, patches, and single-use formats. Trap. A flushability claim inherited from a supplier.
Phase 16. Documents this checklist should produce
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[ ] A claims matrix listing every claim by surface, its category, its substantiation, and its expiry. Why. It is the control that prevents the drug boundary drift. Trap. A matrix that covers packaging only.
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[ ] A prohibited words list, one page, displayed where copy is written. Why. It changes behaviour in a way a policy does not. Trap. Circulation by email.
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[ ] A safety substantiation file per product, retrievable, with assessor and date. Why. Regulatory obligation and first request in any injury claim. Trap. Supplier documents in place of an assessment.
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[ ] A filings register mapping house mark, range names, recurring shade names, design applications, and trade dress registrations to products. Trap. A docket with no product mapping.
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[ ] An executed contract manufacturing agreement with formula ownership, no production for others, overrun destruction, change notice, and audit. Trap. A purchase order treated as a contract.
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[ ] Influencer guidance with a prohibited-claims list, plus monitoring and takedown records. Trap. Guidance with no evidence of enforcement.
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[ ] An estate walk record, quarterly, covering every surface with the gap quantified. Why. It is the only honest measure of the position. Trap. A record of what was reviewed rather than of what was found.
Phase 17. Making it survive the commercial cadence
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[ ] Design the review for eight-week launch cycles and daily social output. Why. A process measured in fortnights will be bypassed, and the bypassed material is what a challenger finds. Trap. A weekly committee governing daily publication.
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[ ] Give the team a pre-approved claim library. Why. Most unauthorised claims are made by someone answering a question, and a short list of approved sentences prevents more than a policy. Trap. A library that does not cover the questions people are actually asked.
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[ ] Batch the heavy work against the range calendar. Substantiation, safety assessments, design filings, and name clearance can be scheduled rather than triggered asset by asset. Trap. Each item treated as an individual request.
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[ ] Accept partial coverage. A programme that catches front-of-pack claims, establishment claims, and the influencer roster is worth more than a comprehensive one abandoned in its second season. Trap. Perfect scope, no adoption.
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[ ] Offer alternatives, never just refusals. Why. A claim removed without a compliant substitute returns in a different form within a season. Trap. Review as a veto function.
Phase 18. Diligence readiness
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[ ] Maintain the claims inventory with substantiation as a standing document. Why. Acquirers examine the claim estate more closely than the trademark schedule, and its absence is the most reliable predictor of post-closing cost. Trap. Assembly beginning when the term sheet arrives.
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[ ] Keep ingredient compliance mapped by market. Why. A single global formula frequently cannot be sold everywhere the brand claims to serve. Trap. A market list drawn from the website rather than from shipments.
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[ ] Have the contract manufacturing agreements ready to produce, with formula ownership, exclusivity, overrun controls, and termination highlighted. Why. A brand that does not own its formula owns less than the data room suggests. Trap. A summary in place of the document.
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[ ] Keep the influencer roster and the guidance issued to it, with monitoring evidence. Trap. A roster maintained by an agency the brand cannot obtain records from.
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[ ] Record diversion and counterfeit history, including platform enforcement volumes and the authorised seller policy. Trap. Enforcement handled by an outside vendor with no reporting back.
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[ ] Keep the safety and adverse event records complete, including events assessed as non-reportable with the reasoning. Trap. Only reported events retained.
- [ ] Assign every open item an owner and a date before closing the review. Why. This checklist generates enough findings to disappear without a tracker, and findings without owners are observations. Trap. A report circulated for information.
Outcome. A claims matrix with substantiation held before publication and a prohibited words list where copy is written; safety substantiation and registration complete; design filings made before any reveal; shade names screened and the recurring ones filed; a contract manufacturing agreement that gives the brand its own formula; influencer guidance issued and monitored; batch coding in place from the first run; and a ninety-day estate walk that measures what is actually published.
The five things people get wrong
One. Letting the copy cross the drug boundary by increments. Nobody decides to sell an unapproved new drug. A phrase is strengthened for a campaign, a founder says something in an interview, a creator improves on the brief, and eighteen months later the product is being marketed as treating a condition. The claims matrix exists because the boundary is never crossed in a single reviewable decision.
Two. Using the sector's vocabulary because everyone else does. "Clean" and "non-toxic" carry the class action exposure and confer no defence from the fact that competitors carry it too. Everything defensible those words were meant to convey can be said specifically, and specific claims survive.
Three. Releasing packaging images before filing. Beauty launches are built on reveals — press previews, seeding, trade shows — and every one of them is a disclosure that forfeits foreign design rights and starts the domestic clock. The fix is a single line in the launch calendar.
Four. Not owning the formula. A great many brands discover during diligence that the contract manufacturer owns the formulation, may produce it for others, and has no obligation to destroy overruns. This is decided by a two-page purchase arrangement signed at a point when the brand had no leverage, and it is far cheaper to fix before the brand matters.
Five. Gifting to hundreds of creators with no guidance. The endorsement rules apply to every post, the brand answers for claims it did not write, and the expected control is a documented process. Sending a one-page prohibited-claims list with the product costs nothing and is the single highest-yield intervention in the channel that actually sells the category.
Key Authorities at a Glance
| Authority | Proposition | |---|---| | 21 U.S.C. § 321 | Drug and cosmetic definitions | | 21 U.S.C. § 361 | Adulterated cosmetics | | 21 U.S.C. § 362 | Misbranded cosmetics | | 15 U.S.C. § 45 | Unfair or deceptive practices | | 15 U.S.C. § 1051 | Registration | | 15 U.S.C. § 1052 | Refusals | | 15 U.S.C. § 1114 | Infringement | | 15 U.S.C. § 1116 | Injunctions and seizure | | 15 U.S.C. § 1117 | Damages; counterfeiting | | 15 U.S.C. § 1125 | False designation; material differences | | 15 U.S.C. § 1451 | Fair Packaging and Labeling Act | | 18 U.S.C. § 1833 | Whistleblower notice | | 18 U.S.C. § 1836 | DTSA civil action | | 18 U.S.C. § 1839 | Trade secret definition | | 35 U.S.C. § 171 | Design patents | | 35 U.S.C. § 289 | Total profit remedy | | 21 C.F.R. § 701.3 | Ingredient declaration | | 16 C.F.R. § 255 | Endorsements | | 16 C.F.R. § 260 | Environmental claims | | Two Pesos v. Taco Cabana | Inherently distinctive trade dress | | Qualitex v. Jacobson Products | Colour marks | | Wal-Mart Stores v. Samara Brothers | Product design | | TrafFix Devices v. Marketing Displays | Functionality | | Lexmark International v. Static Control Components | Standing | | POM Wonderful v. Coca-Cola | Regulation is no defence | | Impression Products v. Lexmark International | Exhaustion | | Time Warner Cable v. DIRECTV | Establishment claims | | Castrol v. Pennzoil | Attacking the tests | | Pizza Hut v. Papa John's International | Puffery | | In re Dillon | Structural obviousness | | In re Papesch | Properties rebut structure | | In re Aller | Range optimisation | | Cosmetics regulation modernisation | Federal obligations | | Cosmetic drug boundary | Intended use | | Animal testing statutes | Cruelty-free | | Fragrance allergen disclosure | Allergen labelling |
Related Documents
Articles
Guides
- Launching a Cosmetics or Personal Care Brand
- Protecting Trade Dress
- Controlling a Distribution Channel Without Violating Exhaustion
Checklists
- Labelling and Packaging Compliance Checklist
- Trade Dress Protection Checklist
- Gray Market and Exhaustion Checklist
Toolkits
- Cosmetics and Personal Care IP Toolkit
- Advertising and Marketing Law Toolkit
- Anticounterfeiting and Border Enforcement Toolkit
Templates & Forms
This document is general information about the law, not legal advice, and does not create an attorney-client relationship. Cosmetics positions depend on the specific claims made, the evidence held, the product's composition, and the markets in which it is sold. Marksy is not a law firm.